Wow, it’s been over a year since either Suzanne or I have
posted to our Italy blog. In fact, we
have only posted 5 total entries since the start of 2014. A big part of that for us has been due to our
shift from a written journal to more of a photo journal to which we continue to
contribute hundreds of photos every month.
Part of that is due to time constraints of course. Truth be told, part of that may also be due
to the worry that we have exhausted the curiousity that
our friends and family have had about our life here. Despite all of that, we expect to have 6-12 months left on
our tour, and I hope Suzanne and I will be able to write a little more often “down
the home stretch”.
Certainly, there continue to be stories, travels, and
adventures to write about. There is also
the perspective of having lived here 4.5 years now and the shifting mindset we
have as we look towards returning to the U.S. Maybe this last series of posts will be
interesting in comparison with posts we made at the start of this adventure. It seems like yesterday when we started this blog in early November 2011 during
an anniversary weekend in the Blue Ridge Mountains, with all the anxiety and excitement. Maybe writing about this last year will be something the kids look
back upon years from now and enjoy reading.
Maybe it’s just about writing the final chapter to the
best book I could have ever conceived for our family.
So in the theme of continued discoveries with some
historical perspective, I offer you the following….
We bought our house in Arcugnano, Italy just over 4 years
ago. Within days of signing the
settlement papers and moving into the house, my parents arrived for what would
be the first of their four (soon to be five) 3-week visits. One day after they left, Suzanne’s parents
arrived for a 3-week visit. Days after
they left, we flew out to circumnavigate Spain for 3 weeks including too many
highlights to revisit. Days after returning
from that, Chase and Annie arrived for their visit that summer. And somewhere in all of that, we started to
unpack all of our belongings, prepare to send our children to Italian schools
not knowing a word of Italian, and oh, then there was me and Josh planting a
50-plant vineyard in our backyard. How
on Earth did we manage to pull all of that off that first summer?!?
I really need to take this moment to thank Suzanne for not
only tolerating this crazy dream adventure, but to add to it and thrive within
it. Back to the story....
At several times along the past 4.5 years, there have been
construction projects in our neighborhood, not unlike any other residential
neighborhood. One of the early projects
we noticed was a rehab of the fortress/castle/villa-looking property on the
opposing hillside from us. Then, at some
other point, we heard a bunch of rock-drilling at a property just down the hill from
us. We couldn't see what was going on, but it continued for a long time, and we kept wondering what the heck was going on down there.
One day early last Spring, we learned that the
fortress/castle/villa on the opposing hillside was also a commercial winery. Me being me, I walked over one evening to
investigate, saw the gate open, and decided to go in and stroll up the very
long driveway to introduce myself. Turns
out, the property owner was conducting a wine tasting with his Norwegian
guests, who were staying in one of their newly renovated B&B-style rooms
for rent. The owner’s name is Misha, and
he is truly one of a kind.
Misha has a small frame and a big personality; he is stylish, embarrassingly hospitable, middle-aged, and is impeccably fluent in at least 3 languages. His attire is high-end casual chique that looks great on him, but would like like costume attire on me. He's witty and well educated, and he sports a curly-que mustache that rounds out his Great Gaspy character. If I remember correctly, his mother was a heiress to some Russian nobelity, who escaped or was exiled or some exotic thing like that. His Dad was from a wealthy Italian family, who become wealthier after becoming some notable physician/scientist/something-or-other. Misha spent many years living in Paris and had come back to the family’s Italian estate only recently. It was maybe 10 years ago that his father planted part of their estate with vines and now Misha was running their modest wine business.
Misha has a small frame and a big personality; he is stylish, embarrassingly hospitable, middle-aged, and is impeccably fluent in at least 3 languages. His attire is high-end casual chique that looks great on him, but would like like costume attire on me. He's witty and well educated, and he sports a curly-que mustache that rounds out his Great Gaspy character. If I remember correctly, his mother was a heiress to some Russian nobelity, who escaped or was exiled or some exotic thing like that. His Dad was from a wealthy Italian family, who become wealthier after becoming some notable physician/scientist/something-or-other. Misha spent many years living in Paris and had come back to the family’s Italian estate only recently. It was maybe 10 years ago that his father planted part of their estate with vines and now Misha was running their modest wine business.
Misha insisted I join his guests and sample his wine, to which I dutifully obliged. It was a spectacular Spring evening out on his large terrazzo, with great views in every direction, and I remember shaking my head in disbelief
of yet another ‘how did I end up here’ moments. While surveying the area, I looked across the
valley that separates our properties and saw our own house for the first time from
this perspective. One thing that stood
out to me was the fairly major construction project that was underway not too
far from our backyard.
On a good day I could throw a baseball from our
backyard to this construction site, but despite its proximity and noise, we never had any idea what was being constructed. Misha informed me that it was the work
of some eccentric retired music conductor who was building an open-air amphitheater. An open-air
amphitheater? Yeah, and when it’s done,
he intends to host concerts and operas and events like that. Concerts in our neighborhood? In an
open-air amphitheater? On the hill just below our yard?…uh, ok. How funny
would that be, right? Little did we
realize what was actually going on...
A year goes by and this Spring, one of our other neighbors
tells Suzanne what this project is really about. This guy is not building anything new, he’s
excavating an ancient, marble amphitheater that they discovered some years ago when
doing some soil testing. Apparently, the
valley below our house used to be a lake, and apparently there was a naval
passage from Venice to the former lake below our house. Apparently,
some 700 years ago or so, boats would pull up and dock, and then
the nobility of the day could stroll up the hillside to attend the opera or
theater performances here in our little town of Arcugnano. Go figure!
Now, there is a big excavation and restoration project happening on site, to include the amphitheater itself along with what is apparently a number of ancient marble statues. And when they’re done, it will become a venue for performances and concerts.
Apparently, the ancient Italians know what they’re doing when it comes to such things, because we have always marveled at the acoustics of where we live. On a cool summer evening, the town will have little parties maybe ½ mile down the valley, much further away than the site of this amphitheater, and you can hear people talking almost as if they were in our backyard. It reminds me of the acoustics on Stoney Creek back home where you could hear the watermen in the early mornings as if they were in your living room, even though they were crabbing clear across the creek.
Apparently, the ancient Italians know what they’re doing when it comes to such things, because we have always marveled at the acoustics of where we live. On a cool summer evening, the town will have little parties maybe ½ mile down the valley, much further away than the site of this amphitheater, and you can hear people talking almost as if they were in our backyard. It reminds me of the acoustics on Stoney Creek back home where you could hear the watermen in the early mornings as if they were in your living room, even though they were crabbing clear across the creek.
How cool. Now I have visions of Suzanne in an evening gown,
strolling with me from our house to our neighborhood amphitheater
on some stary-sky summer evening for the Wednesday night opera series. Heck, maybe we won’t even need to go anywhere. Maybe we’ll pull out the yard chairs, pour
some mohitos over ice, and listen to the concert from our own backyard. Better yet, maybe we’ll pour some of our own
TaylorMade Vino and listen to the concerts overlooking the vines in our backyard that produced
the very wine that we are drinking! Why not?!?
Check out more at this website if you’re interested:
Always more to learn and experience. Always more to
discover. Not an endless amount of time
left though. Better get back to it.
Ciao for now. Ci
vediamo!
ct