Cinque Terre

I think we may have found a good tradition for the MLK three day weekend in January. As Chris and I were both in a state of being ill (looks like we both had pneumonia), and the days were dark, foggy and cold, and we were getting a bit tired of the army post and hotel, I decided it was time to make the trek to see the water. It was time to go back to Cinque Terre, one of the most wonderful places on earth.

Normally in the winter we would trek to the mountains, but right now we have no snow gear and no snow tires, so off to the seashore we go. The drive was uneventful as we made our way through the dense cold fog that seems to blanket the interior of Northern Italy in the winter. We eventually came out of it as we crossed a steep mountain range and then descended into sunny La Spezia. The first time we really knew this trip was a good idea was when we passed La Spezia, traveled over more hills, and suddenly came out on a road that hangs off a steep hillside and all that is before you is a vast, blue sea. It's beautiful!

We then continued to the first town in the cinque terre, and the town in which we were staying, Riomaggiore. Our hotel was located at the uppermost part of the town and the room had a terrace where we could look over the town and the sea.

All five towns are old fishing villages that are now mostly supported by tourism. There are wonderful hiking trails between the towns and a convenient train that runs frequently. Each town is distinctly different, from it's setting, the type of people it attracts, the view, the atmosphere, and locals would add the dialects and homemade wines are distinctly different between the towns. These towns are packed with tourists in the summer months, but during the winter months the towns are sleepy and many restaurants and stores shut down and resume business when the weather warms.

A friendly local fisherman gave the kids a close-up of the octopus he just caught. (il Polpo)

We were hitting the towns at one of the sleepiest times, but it was a tranquility we enjoyed. The air was cold but the sun was warm and bright. On our first afternoon, we found an isolated rocky beach which the kids loved. They explored every corner of it and climbed all the rocks. Chris and I caught a few minutes rest stretched out on the warm rocks, listening to the waves, soaking up the sun, and making a little vitamin D.

The next day, we headed out early and started a steep descent through the town and made our way to the via dell amore, the first hiking trail that connects Riomaggiore with Manarola. This path is the shortest of the town connectors, and historically, was a way for lovers from the two towns to meet. This history gives the path its namesake and also explains the love graffiti found along the path and the many locks. Apparently, closing a padlock with your lover in a special spot is a common ritual in Italy. Now we also know why there were many padlocks on another bridge in Saltzburg. They say the ritual was re-popularized by a teen novel a few years ago.

Via dell' Amore

Some of the many locks and some graffiti.

The Via dell' Amore was a perfect hike for the kids both in length and its smooth, mostly paved flat surface.

At the end of the trail we entered Manarola. This is another enchanting town. We climbed the steep walk up the main street to a small piazza, a bell tower (which served as a watch tower when pirates attacked in the past), and a church that dates back to 1338. We then walked a path which wound along the hill, always with a beautiful view of the sea. The path is called a vineyard walk. You pass through a large vineyard that covers the steep hill and is sprinkled with simple wooden, life-size, biblical figures and animals that are still standing from Christmas. The owner of the vineyard apparently does this as an homage to his late father. At night they are lit up, but we missed that part.

The nativity figures in the vineyard.

The vineyard trail also took us past blooming flowers, a bountiful kiwi vine, and many lemon trees full of beautiful lemons. We eventually came down to a point that hung out over the sea as a natural scenic overlook. On this point was a small park, and wonderful bonus......a playground! The kids loved it and it gave Chris and I a chance to relax in the sun and explore the point. We enjoyed the flowers, the view, and it was fun hanging over the fence watching a couple fisherman in their small wooden boat pull in their long fishing net. Every few feet of net pulled in would provide a fish that one man would scoop into a hand net.

Great place for a playground, huh?

One of the many lemon trees.

After Manarola, we traveled by train to the town furthest North in the cinque terre called Monterosso al Mare. Unfortunately, this town as well as the jewel of the cinque terre, Vernazza, suffered much damage and destruction during some heavy rains, flooding, and landslides that occurred this past fall. We were shocked that the majority of the stores and restaurants in Monterosso, normally the more resort-like town, were boarded up and under construction. The floods came directly down the main street of town. Only a few restaurants on the side streets were spared. We were lucky to find one of these for lunch and it was very crowded. Although Monterosso was hit badly, Vernazza is essentially vacant and the train does not even stop there at this time.

One of the best parts of Monterosso, and one that was spared by the storms, is their beach which is pebbly, but softer than any other in the cinque terre and it is relatively large. As we walked along the beach, we looked up and saw that paragliders filled the sky softly floating down from the hills above town. It was a beautiful site and it was fun to watch them land on the beach. I don't think there was any time during our afternoon in Monterosso when there were not at least 10 or so floating around in the sky. They would land, pack up their parachutes and get into a van heading back to the top.

Paraglider coming down.

After lunch, and a great climb on a large rock that hangs over the beach...

We took the next train back to Riomaggiore where we picked up some foccacia pizza take-out. This region is where foccacia bread originated. I love it! One morning I had foccacia bread with fresh lemon jam....delizioso!

The next morning we took one more trip down to the rocky beach for some final climbing and then it was time to travel home. We will definitely be back. It will be fun to visit this place in the warm weather when we can swim in the water and do some more basking in the sun. I'm sure we will miss the tranquility we experienced on this trip, as the crowds can be a bit overwhelming in the summer. Until then, we bid arrivaderci a Cinque Terre!